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LarryMc

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About LarryMc

  • Birthday 11/19/1946

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gate City, VA

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  • Location
    SouthWest VA
  • Occupation
    Retired

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  1. Since you already have the glass boat and a jet ski motor, it would probably be the least expensive way to go. You could also probably find a used 14'-16' aluminum boat at a low price and put your jet ski motor in it fairly cheap if you wanted to go that route. I don't know anything about building a Jet John, but you can find a lot of info about it on tinboats.net
  2. Outboard jet conversion kits cost around $2000 or more depending on the motor if you buy new. About the only way you could do it cheap is to find a used one somewhere.
  3. I like Carver Semi-Custom covers in the Poly-Guard fabric. They are reasonably price, have a built in motor cover and fit well. You should be able to get one for around $200-$250 for the size you need. You can figure on getting about 5 years of use from them. Savvyboater.com is a good place to buy them.
  4. Probably be best to replace the fuel line & bulb assembly with a factory unit. I replaced my Mercury (Quicksilver) fuel line & bulb with a Moeller unit several years ago and the bulb would get so hard in cold weather that it was impossible to pump up. Went back to a Quicksilver unit and it works fine under all conditions. As far as replacing the water pump impeller, my opinion is that you have a good stream of water coming out at idle after the motor warms up, it doesn't need replacing.
  5. Mike Watson has done a lot of welding for me. He does good work.
  6. Happy Birthday LarryMc!

  7. Check the fluid level and if needed, add fluid. Could also have air in the system. Try bleeding it by fully raising and lowering the motor at least 4 times.
  8. Thought for sure that it was a vent problem, looks like I was wrong. I would try dada's other suggestion and switch hose assemblies before buying a new tank .
  9. Does the left side tank have a vent valve that can be closed? If so, make sure that the vent is open when running that tank. Looks like dada and I had the same thought about the tank needing venting. He beat me to it.
  10. It sounds normal to me, that's the way my boat runs at WOT. You should be running shallower with the bow down but not plowing.
  11. Excellent! Glad to hear that your first jet fishing trip went so well.
  12. Good advice. Get the boat set up the way you are going to fish and then start tweaking your jet setup. If the leading edge of the intake is even or slightly above the bottom of your boat, the height should be good. If you get it too high, you will have problems with cavitation. The factory grease gun is designed so that you won't apply too much pressure and blow out the seals. Just hold it tight to the zerk fitting while pushing the plunger in. You can use a regular high pressure grease gun, but if you do, be sure to pump it very slowly and don't apply too much pressure. The grease recommended by OBJ is GL-1 grade which is thinner and is easier to pump in than the usual wheel bearing and axle grease that you find in an automotive store.
  13. Sounds like that might be your problem. My boat is a center console and I have 2 # 27 trolling motor batteries in the bow, practically in the nose of the boat. With me alone, this works fine. If I have a buddy sitting in the seat in front of the console, there is too much weight in front and the bow plows water a little. When we make a long run, we move everything we can back toward the stern to shift the weight back and it helps a lot. We just live with it on short runs. It sounds like you are off to a good start.
  14. In that case , it should be good. It looks lower than that in the photo. My Lowe has a center strake about the same size and shape as the one on your boat. It hasn't caused any cavitation problems on my boat, so it shouldn't on yours. If it does, a spray plate and intake fins will correct it.
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